Back in my days of driving everywhere and lazing around campus, a pair of shoes lasted seemingly forever. They may get dirty but never worn out. That was before New York City. Walking in this city does to shoes what driving in LA does to car tires. It’s unbelievable how quickly a pair of shoes fall into disrepair walking these streets. After less than a year and a handful of surprise rainstorms, my Frye boots were in a pitiable state of dried and brittle leather. I always thought I could do it myself, with creams and conditioners, but I was wrong. I had to take the plunge and bring them to a cobbler (and I proudly promote Rostelle’s on 8th and 54th).
I had never been to a cobbler before, so I was nervous. The man behind the counter, after I gave him my boots, looked at me with an expression of hideous disbelief. He looked at the beat up Chelsea’s, then up at me, then back down at the boots and shook his head slowly as if he’d just seen a horrible car accident. Then he looks at me and yells ‘how long has it been since you’ve had these conditioned!?’ It was like the Seinfeld episode where the mechanic passionately implores Jerry to ‘have the oil changed every 3000 miles!’ For God’s sake, how could I have been so disrespectful!? He was right, but I had no idea what kind of care a nice pair of shoes needed to survive this city. Needless to say, 5$ and 24 hrs later, the boots were better than new. I was hooked and I implore you to do the same. Keep those leather shoes and boots conditioned and they’ll last forever and look great.
They say the first thing a man is judged on is his shoes. Take that to heart.

Came across this ad on 52nd and Madison this morning. The Hamilton Khaki Field watch is a perfect match for Hilary Swank as she plays Amelia Earhart in the new biopic coming out later this month. The leather band and thin, simple face of this watch harkans back to the aviator watches of WWII, which I have written about previously. Amelia disappeared during her famous flight in 1937, so the style this watch emulates lines up perfectly with the famous vintage Hamiltons worn in the great war. And available for $475 at your local Tourneau store, not a bad way to get a watch with vintage Hamilton style and modern Hamilton quality and convenience.

Style is not all about clothing, but about a Lifestyle of refinement and personal growth. And Fun. So here are three things that will bring some spark to these chilly evenings.

Kafka Was The Rage, by Anatole Broyard, is a memoir about living in Greenwich Village post WWII. It’s the story of a young man who dives head first into the infamous bohemia of downtown NYC in the 1940s. He moves in with a modernist painter, rubs shoulders with famous poets, chases women, and generally has a wild time. Wonderfully written, intensely engaging, and far too short, I read this in one sitting and was genuinely let down when it was over. Not because the end was bad but because I was upset that there wasn’t anymore to read. Get this and read it, and reread it, and give to your friends. And start sifting through Craigslist ads for apartments on Thompson St.

Recommended by my local purveyor of Bourbon, comes Sazerac Straight Rye. I was told that Bourbon is nice to cut your proverbial teeth with, but Rye is a real man’s Whiskey. American Straight Rye can only be called as such if it is made with at least 51% Rye and aged for at least 2 years in oak barrels. It largely died off after prohibition, but a handful of distillers still produce Rye, one of which is Sazerac. Affordable, and very tasty, this stuff over rocks will keep you nice and toasty on an October evening. Sazerac is also one of America’s oldest known cocktails, apparently invented in the 1830s by Antoine Amédée Peychaud, the cocktail consists of Straight Rye, a dash of Peychaud’s bitters, a bit of simple syrup, and, back in the good old days, a splash of absinthe. Could be an interesting change of pace, and with the Absinthe, dangerous, although I don’t know how many bars will have the necessary ingredients to make this.

Finally we have Primer, an indy flick that came out in 2004. It was made with less than $7k budget, but you wouldn’t know it. What is really interesting about this movie is the deeply confusing but thought provoking paradoxes and morality issues that arise from the creation of the mystery device (which I won’t explain or spoil, just rent the movie, don’t read about it online first). This film is short and sweet, and needs to be watched and re-watched, discussed and analyzed. It’ll turn your head around. Really cool stuff, and great to start some interesting conversation over a glass of Sazerac!

I was discussing the ‘no-belt’ look with a friend yesterday, and he was skeptical about it. I am 100% pro ‘no-belt.’ As a general rule, I think that just wearing a button down shirt tucked into pants never looks right. On models, they tailor the shirts to be skin tight and can prepare each shot to look perfect. This doesn’t happen in real life, even if your shirts are perfectly tailored. The shirts bunch, they billow, they get twisted. Even with a nice belt, after a few minutes it just doesn’t look good. Therefore, I try to always cover the belt area with a vest, a sweater, a blazer, something so that you look put together by having your shirt tucked in, but you don’t have to worry about keeping it straight. That said, a man’s pants should fit tightly around the waist. If this is the case, no belt is needed. They are a relatively new piece of fashion anyway. Men wore braces (suspenders) for generations before belts came onto the scene. According to this site, the belt was invented in 1812 by Sam Browne, who needed a place to hang his sword after losing his arm in battle. Another history says that belts became functional only in the 1920s, when men’s trouser waist lines began to drop below the natural waist. Before that time belts were generally only used by the military as a decorative uniform accent. Either way, a tailored pant is much more necessary than a belt, and if you aren’t sure, cover it with a sweater! Problem solved.

Autumn has arrived and I’ve made a pact with myself to wear jeans as sparingly as possible this season. Because of this, I have been searching for the perfect pair of Khaki’s. Something with just the right balance of beige, yellow and brown, with a 28 waist (I know… it’s genetic) and a slim leg. Nice and soft but durable too, though not like a dickie’s brand, those things are burlap. I spent the day walking Midtown, trying all the usual suspects. Gap’s smallest size in store was a 29 and they were long and baggy. Macy’s doesnt carry anything smaller than a 30 waist. H and M and Zara didn’t have anything that fit…I guess I’m too late, all the smallest sizes sold out already. The quality at those places isn’t the best either, and for something that should last not always the best choice. And I hate to spend much more than $50 on something that seems like such a common, staple piece, so that pretty much rules out boutique stores. JCrew has a few decent looking options.


First the new Bowery pant looks like it has just the right fit, although at $69.50 plus shipping? And it only comes in 28/32 so add $10 at the tailor, that’s steep. And it’s not real khaki chino material, it’s more dressy. The second picture is the Urban Slim-Fit Chino, a bit more reasonable at $59.50 but add shipping, and again the 28/32 needs a trip to the tailor…Anyways, in my Googling around I found some cool brands you might be interested in.

Bill’s Khaki’s was started in 1990 by a man who picked up a pair of vintage WWII Khaki’s and thought that since there’s nothing else even close to the quality and fit of those vintage pants, he would start a company dedicated to recreating them. Each pair comes in any combination of fabric type and your choice of pleated, flat front, slim or relaxed fit, and in many colors. You can order them to size (of course 30 is the smallest waist). All are made in a refurbished factory in Reading PA.

Hunter and Coggins has all kinds of made to order and customizable options, I really the idea of all those different colored blazers. I’ve always had a thing for a maroon blazer…but now I’ve gone off topic. The search continues next weekend…

I am caught up in the boot craze. I love boots, be it cowboy, motorcycle, or ol’ fashion combat boots. There is no better feeling than stomping around in a nice pair of leather boots. No other type of shoe fits your foot better or makes you feel the way you do in a pair of bad-ass boots. The blogs are a buzz with talk about the new Wolverine 1000 Mile series, and yes, they are beautiful and I’m sure of the utmost quality, but there are lots of other fantastic brands to choose from too.

The Frye harness boot has a storied history. From the companies website:

Founded in 1863 by John A. Frye, a prominent English shoemaker, The Frye Company is the oldest continuously operated shoe company in the United States. … Frye’s footwear has a long and illustrious history… Frye boots were worn by Union and Confederate soldiers during America’s Civil War, as well as soldiers in the Spanish- American War including Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders. When homesteading sparked adventurous New England families to go West in the mid and late 1800’s, many of these pioneers wore Frye Boots for the long journey.
Frye’s Harness Boot is rooted in tradition and continues to draw influence from the American Cavalry. During a 1938 trip to Washington, DC, John A. Frye’s grandson and namesake met a U.S. Navy Admiral who noted his difficulty in finding the Wellington style he liked so much. As a favor, John agreed to make him a pair. Frye continued to fill requests for these boots through World War II. By mail order, the company supplied thousands of WWII servicemen with Frye Wellingtons, known as Jet Boots. Our boots traveled the world on the feet of U.S. soldiers during the war – even General Patton wore a pair.

More recently you might have seen the traditional harness boot on people whose boots survived the 60s or hipster girls wearing them with skirts and tights. A far cry from General Patton, but good to keep the brand alive.
More recently, Frye has been putting out some more city-stylish boots. They have the same standard of quality but a much sleeker and hipper design. These are the Jesse harness:

And here are the Jayden Chelsea. A ‘Chelsea’ boot just means that they have an elastic section on the shaft for comfort (not my favorite, but the elastic doesn’t show under pants). I picked up a pair of these last fall and they are the best fitting and feeling pair of shoes I have ever had, hands down. They are light but thick enough to feel substantial on the foot, and the wood sole adds that familiar stomping noise you love about wearing boots. I’ve had the leather conditioned a few times by my local cobbler and they look brand new and feel even better. And with a nice pair of slim, cuffed jeans, an undeniably stylish but ‘manly’ look. The toe is a bit more pointed than the regular harness, which is a bit boxy in the front, but they aren’t ugly european pointy by any means. They are just right….perfectly designed. Check them out, they are a little pricey, but with good care will last for a lifetime.

Here is a quick and simple guide to how to carry your personal belongings this fall. Which catagory do you fit in?

1.) Middle schoolers – you rock the backpack. Canvas, many pockets, pencils slots. This is the bag for those of you who haven’t graduated on to lace up shoes and given away all of your cargo pocket pants yet. Right on bro! And don’t think that having a brand name one makes any difference…two padded straps and zippers are inexcusable.

2.) Hipsters – The classic canvas tote. This particular example is semi-mainstream as it features the logo of a small, not very well known Rum brand. How ironic! This bag works well over the shoulder or carried on your side, either way you are telling the world that you got this bag at a music festival and it’s purely functional. Yo hipster, you do you’re thing.

3.) Average Joe Cool – This is the mainstream messenger bag. Usually a nice brown or black leather, this is the side slung strap bag that says ‘I dabble in fashion but I’m not trying to make a statement.’ These used to be a big time statement a few years ago, but have trickled down to become a common sense alternative to the backpack. While some have a very stylish design, they’ve already passed their hay day as trendy.

4.) Geek chic – Aahh, the classic briefcase, or attache case, as the spies call it. This could either go with your thick frame glasses and be referred to as a ‘throw back’ or be actually vintage and match that tweed blazer your grandfather gave you. Either way, it’s very cool and if carried with confidence, a serious statement. Be wary of the thickness however, the thinner the more ‘fashionable’ but not as classic.

5.) Trend Setter – Here we have a staple of every fashionable man’s collection. A well made canvas weekend tote bag. It’s big enough to carry a few days provisions but not quite a duffel, and with sturdy leather accents and a thick handle, this screams prepared gentleman. Many have taken to carrying this sort of bag in a day to day scene, and this is perfectly acceptable as long as its carried in hand and not in the crook of the elbow; but be prepared to take flak for carrying a ‘murse.’ Stay strong, and carry on…if you dare.

According to The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through World History the Chesterfield style of overcoat was invented by the 6th Earl of Chesterfield in the 1840s. It was designed without a tight waistline seam to have a looser, more comfortable fit, a big change from the rigid and structured top coats that preceded it. It can be either single or double breasted, although single is the traditional style. It often has conceled buttons, a.k.a. a ‘fly front’, and is distinguished by a velvet collar in a complimentary color. Various tweed and houndstooth patterns are common for Chesterfield coats, as is the traditional wool or cashmere. I’ve always thought the detailed patterns, highlighted by the colored velvet collar, made this a singularly stylish piece. While they are still around today, they are not as popular as a regular wool, solid color top coat and therefore are harder to find and generally quite expensive. The first example below is a very traditional navy blue wool coat from Brooks Brothers, the second is a much more high fashion example from Burberry, and finally a fast fashion version from Topman. All have the essential look that distinguishes the Chesterfield, and it’s owner, as gentlemanly. So if you see one try it out, it may add something very unique and new to your cold weather wardrobe.

It’s the small, simple additions that are fun to mix and match and bring some personality to a wardrobe. And it’s always cathartic to buy something!

First up is this wool tweed vest from the JCrew sample sale. I had to excercise extreme levels of self restraint as the sale was huge and full of size mediums at a decent discount. This is a nice, heavyweight vest with a belted back to keep it fitted well. The striped fabric detail on the inside is a nice touch, although I think the lining scared the guy at the local tailor, so I’ll need to take it somewhere else to get some darts put in it. I think it’ll make some interesting combinations with the leather jacket and motorcycle boots that are going to be the mainstays of this fall. And for $30 plus the cost of tailoring, this is unbeatable.

If you remember one of the first posts, about finding some driving gloves, the fateful day has come. These are from Rue La La .com so they were a bargain (great website for discount designer stuff, check it out). They are Portolano, 100% Italian deer skin, and man they are soft as a baby’s butt. The fingers and palm are snug and fit well, although the opening is a little big, and doesn’t really sinch up well…but what can ya do. Velcro cinches better but the buttons are much more stylish. Too bad it’s 80* this week and I can’t wear any of this stuff!

Soon enough.

Daniel Akst wrote this article in the Journal a few months ago about how denim “… is an essential co-conspirator in the modern trend toward undifferentiated dressing, in which we all strive to look equally shabby no matter what the occasion.” He goes on to say that Obama should “impose a federal levy on Levi’s” solving two problems in America: federal deficit and the slovenly wardrobe of almost all our citizens. George Will picks up along this vein in this piece he wrote for the Washington Post. He makes the point that jeans, which started out as the work pant of the miner (hence the copper rivets and heavy stitching), then became the symbol of rebellion on the legs of James Dean and Marlon Brando, have now taken over the closets of those seeking to blend in and symbolizes the “infantile uniform” of a generation of “childlike adults.”

I wear jeans as much as the next guy, and it would be easy to regard the above points as frumpy or out of touch, but think about it for a minute. How many men do you know that wear any kind of pants other than jeans? Guys think that wearing jeans shows that you don’t care about how you look, you’re just going with whats easy and convenient. And it does express that. But why is that the societal norm? There is nothing wrong with thinking about how you present yourself to the world and being conscious of your image, because despite how altriustic it is to think that you shouldn’t judge people by how they look, it’s silly to think that people don’t judge. So take that for what it’s worth, and get some corduroys or kahkis. Stand out a little bit. You won’t regret it.